Back in February, natural soap brand Dr. Bronner’s announced that it was dropping its B Corp label due to weak standards that allow for “greenwashing and purpose-washing.”

Months after Dr. Bronner’s mic drop moment, B Corp is again making headlines after granting certification to ultra-fast fashion brand Princess Polly, with some saying the very nature of fast fashion is anathema to the social and environmental metrics B Corp should be upholding.

Princess Polly, on its website, says it’s “on a mission to make on-trend fashion sustainable,” and that 30% of its new arrivals use lower-impact materials like recycled polyester and organic cotton. It’s also pledged to reduce carbon emissions by 2030 and touts its sourcing from factories with a “valid ethical manufacturing audit.”

But critics are skeptical, pointing out that Princess Polly’s business model relies on overproduction and hyper-consumerism.

“It’s greenwashing,” sustainability-focused journalist Alden Wicker told The Guardian. “You can’t run a certification like this based on vibes. Anybody who wants a better world when it comes to how we purchase and consume fashion would have values that clash with the ethos of this brand.”

B Lab, the nonprofit that certifies brands as B Corp, has said that certification is holistic, not exclusively focused on a single social or environmental issue. Historically, companies have been issued points in five areas – governance, workers, community, environment and customers – and as long as the total points add up to 80 (out of a possible 200), they can become a certified B Corp. That’s led to a system where companies can shore up weak performance in one pillar by overperforming in another, critics say.

Following a five-year-long consultation process, however, B Lab has overhauled the points system, this year announcing new certification requirements where companies must meet nonnegotiable minimum standards across seven impact topics: purpose and stakeholder governance; climate action; human rights; fair work; environmental stewardship and circularity; justice, equity, diversity and inclusion; and government affairs and collective action. B Lab stopped accepting applications for certification under the old standards at the end of June. (Princess Polly became certified in May of this year under the old standards, according to the B Corp website.)

“B Lab’s new standards can serve as a roadmap for leadership on social and environmental issues when needed most,” Clay Brown, co-lead executive of B Lab Global, said when the new standards were first announced.

Challenges With Certification

The controversy surrounding B Corp highlights some of the challenges with sustainability certification. There are hundreds of eco-labels and certification programs out there, “many of which are misunderstood or entirely unknown,” says Andy Keller, a member of the Promo for the Planet Advisory Board as well as the founder and CEO of B Corp-certified ChicoBag (asi/44811).

That “logo soup” can lead to greenwashing, with certifications becoming marketing badges, rather than proof of impact. Certifications can be time-consuming and expensive, with the process taking months or even years to complete, a prospect that could leave smaller companies in the lurch, while larger firms with deeper pockets may have an easier time of navigating or even “gaming” assessments.

“Anyone who’s dealt with ESG questionnaires knows that sometimes it feels like a ‘sink or swim’ scenario where you’re pushed to pull something – anything – out of thin air to satisfy the client,” Maria Tymtsias, co-founder and head of sustainability at AI-powered ESG reporting platform Palau, wrote in a LinkedIn post about how easy it is to “fake it till you make it” on EcoVadis assessments.

“The demand for transparency in supply chains is growing … but if the thresholds are so low that even minimal effort can earn a decent rating, what’s the real value of these assessments?” she asked.

65%
of consumers who are highly engaged with sustainability look for third-party certifications to verify a company’s claims.(Hartman 2023 Sustainability Report)

As participation in various sustainability certifications grows – there are now more than 10,000 certified B Corps worldwide – does that indicate an increase in sustainability efforts across the spectrum, or is it diluting the value and power of such certifications?

“We’re kind of anti-certification at Ethix,” says Lindsey Cole, director of marketing and communications at Ethix Merch (asi/189731) and a member of the Promo for the Planet board. She adds that certifications can give a false sense of security to buyers. “It just hasn’t been worth it for us.”

Instead, Ethix tries to build strong relationships at the vendor level, checking them out personally to make sure it’s working with companies that match its values, she adds.

For many in the promo industry and beyond, third-party validation – whether through B Corp, EcoVadis or another source – still has value, despite the flaws. However, such badges should be looked at as a starting point for deeper conversations around a brand’s impact, rather than just another box to be checked.

“Ultimately, it comes down to trust – how trustworthy the brand is in the eyes of the customer,” Keller says. “Third-party certifications are essential for building that trust, but they’re only part of the equation. True trust is strengthened by telling authentic stories, personally visiting your supply chain, and sharing those experiences. Bringing the supply chain story to life helps customers connect with your values in a way no certificate alone can achieve.”

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